East Lothian Golf Guide: Scotland's Golf Coast on a Budget

East Lothian's golf coast runs from Musselburgh east to Dunbar, a 40-mile stretch of coastline with more quality links golf than most countries can claim in total. Within that strip: Muirfield, North Berwick's West Links, five Gullane courses, Craigielaw, Longniddry, Luffness, Kilspindie, Whitekirk, Winterfield, and Dunbar.

Some of these are private and formal. Some are genuinely accessible on a budget. Most visitors make the mistake of treating East Lothian as exclusively the preserve of Muirfield and North Berwick, missing a cluster of courses that charge a quarter of the price and play very well.

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The headline courses

Muirfield (Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers)

Green fee: £270–320
Visitor access: Tuesday and Thursday mornings only, handicap certificate required (24 men / 36 women)

Muirfield is the most private of East Lothian's major clubs and the most formal. Jacket and tie in the dining room; correct dress code on the course. The course is widely considered one of the fairest tests in links golf — no blind shots, no gimmicks, a layout that requires thought on every hole.

For visitors prepared to meet the conditions: book well in advance (the club's website has an application form), confirm your handicap documentation, and dress appropriately. The round is worth it.

North Berwick Golf Club — West Links

Green fee: £110–165 (visitor days)
Visitor access: Weekday visitor tee times available, some weekend access

The West Links is one of Scotland's most characterful and enjoyable links. The 15th hole (the Redan, a famous par-3 that has been copied at courses worldwide) alone justifies the trip. The course is old, quirky, and full of holes that require imagination rather than just length.

Visitor access is limited — the club is members-first — but midweek rounds are available with advance booking. Green fees are significantly lower than Muirfield for a course of comparable quality.

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The mid-range tier: excellent value at £40–80

Gullane Golf Club — No. 2 and No. 3

Green fee: No. 2: £65–80 / No. 3: £45–60
Visitor access: Good — book online in advance

Gullane No. 1 is the flagship (£110+) and comparable to North Berwick in quality. Courses 2 and 3 are excellent links in their own right, significantly cheaper, and easier to book. If you're planning an East Lothian trip and want Gullane quality without Gullane No. 1 prices, the 2 and 3 are the sensible choice.

Craigielaw Golf Club

Green fee: £55–75
Visitor access: Good — a modern links designed in 2001, visitor-friendly

Craigielaw sits on the Aberlady Bay coastline and was designed by Donald Steel. It's a newer course (by East Lothian standards, where everything else is Victorian or older) but the links terrain is genuine and the views toward the Lammermuir Hills and the Firth of Forth are excellent. Less famous than its neighbours, which keeps the tee times available.

Longniddry Golf Club

Green fee: £50–70
Visitor access: Midweek visitor rounds available

A parkland/links hybrid — starts inland and finishes on the coast, with the back nine offering proper links conditions and sea views. An underrated course on the East Lothian circuit.

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The budget tier: proper golf under £40

Kilspindie Golf Club, Aberlady

Green fee: £30–45
Visitor access: Good

Nine holes out and nine back along the Aberlady Bay coastline. Shorter than the major courses but genuinely scenic, and the green fee is a fraction of the famous neighbours. Aberlady Bay is a nature reserve, and playing the back nine at Kilspindie with the estuary and wildlife visible is one of East Lothian's quieter pleasures.

Whitekirk Golf Course

Green fee: £35–50
Visitor access: Good — hotel-associated course

A few miles east of North Berwick, Whitekirk is a parkland/links mix with views across to the Bass Rock. Quieter than the coastal strip, well-maintained, and visitor-friendly because it operates primarily as a resort course attached to Whitekirk Hill hotel.

Dunbar Golf Club

Green fee: £40–60
Visitor access: Weekday tee times available

Dunbar is at the eastern end of the Golf Coast — 45 minutes from Edinburgh, slightly beyond most visitors' itineraries. The course is a proper links, founded in 1856, with some spectacular clifftop holes and a character that belongs to Dunbar rather than the more tourist-focused western part of East Lothian. Worth the extra drive.

Winterfield Golf Course, Dunbar

Green fee: £20–25
Visitor access: Pay and play, no advance booking needed

A public par-3 / 9-hole course adjacent to Dunbar Golf Club. Not in the same category as the main East Lothian courses but an option for a casual round at very low cost.

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A 3-day East Lothian itinerary

Day 1 — Gullane
Morning round: Gullane No. 2 or No. 3 (£65–80). Walk the Gullane beach in the afternoon. Stay in Gullane or Haddington.

Day 2 — North Berwick
West Links visitor round if you've booked in advance. Alternatively: Craigielaw or Longniddry. Walk to the North Berwick harbour after the round.

Day 3 — Muirfield or budget option
If your Muirfield booking is confirmed (Tue/Thu), this is the marquee round. If not: Kilspindie in the morning and Dunbar in the afternoon, covering two proper links for under £90 combined.

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Getting to East Lothian

By train: Regular services from Edinburgh Waverley to North Berwick (50 minutes). Drem station is closer to Gullane but trains are less frequent. A taxi from Drem to Gullane costs around £10.

By car: A1 east from Edinburgh, then coastal roads. Gullane is 23 miles from Edinburgh city centre (30–40 minutes). North Berwick is 26 miles (35–45 minutes).

Car hire: Recommended if you're combining multiple courses on different days. A car transforms flexibility.

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For the full East Lothian 3-course day route: East Lothian Golf Crawl — Play 3 Links in 2 Days. For the Muirfield visit in detail: How to Get a Round at Muirfield.