A stone boundary wall runs the full length of Dunbar's links on the landward side; the North Sea runs the full length on the seaward side. Between them is the golf course — a strip of ground that has been used for golf since 1856, with Old Tom Morris doing early work on the layout and James Braid and David Sayers substantially revising it in 1923. The wall is genuinely in play on several holes. Golf has been played in exactly this kind of slightly mad geographic constraint for a hundred and seventy years, and the course feels exactly as old as it is.
The playing standard is that of a proper links — exposed, firm in summer, variable in wind direction because of the layout's general north-south orientation. The 4th and 5th holes, which run closest to the sea wall, are the ones most visitors remember: both require precision rather than length, and both punish the pull that sends the ball onto or against the wall itself. The back nine finds more room but no easier conditions. The 14th, a long par 4 running southeast directly into the prevailing wind, plays significantly harder than its yardage on most summer days. The 18th returns to the town with OOB pressing the right side; a par 4 that finishes in front of the clubhouse and requires a composed, straight second shot after what the wind has already done to your scorecard.
Visitor green fee is £85–£115, which positions it reasonably against the more famous East Lothian neighbours. Dunbar is often overlooked in favour of Gullane and North Berwick, which suits the locals. Direct train from Edinburgh Waverley to Dunbar (30 minutes), then a 10-minute walk to the first tee. The clubhouse has a full bar and hot food. Pair with Winterfield Golf Club (15 minutes north by car, £40–£55, a shorter public links) for a two-round day on the Dunbar coast.