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Birdie Brae

A Journal for the Thrifty Gowfer

While They Golf · East Lothian

Dunbar for the non-golfer.

Dunbar is an East Lothian fishing town 30 miles east of Edinburgh, sitting at the point where the A1 leaves the inland farmland and reaches the Firth of Forth coast. It is smaller and quieter than North Berwick, its more fashionable neighbour 12 miles west, and the John Muir connection — Muir was born here in 1838 before emigrating to America and founding the conservation movement — gives it a particular kind of heritage. The coastline east of Dunbar is the best argument for basing a golf trip here: John Muir Country Park stretches from the town east to Tyninghame, with dunes, beach, and clifftop walking. Tantallon Castle is 9 miles west on the clifftop above the sea. The Belhaven Brewery is in the town; it has been brewing since 1719. The practical case for Dunbar: East Lothian golf is within 20–30 minutes in every direction. Gullane and Muirfield are 15 miles west; North Berwick is 12 miles west; Dunbar Golf Club is in the town itself. A non-golfer based here can spend days in the Country Park while the golfer cycles through the East Lothian coast.

Practical note

Dunbar has free parking at Bayswell Park near the golf club and at the harbour. The train from Edinburgh takes 35 minutes (regular service); the station is a 10-minute walk from the town centre. John Muir Country Park is accessed from Belhaven beach car park (free) or via the coastal path from the town. Tantallon Castle requires a car — 9 miles west on the A198.

The Picks

5 things to do within thirty minutes.

John Muir Country Park

Belhaven, 1 mile west · free access · year-round

A 1,700-acre coastal park stretching from Belhaven Bay east past Dunbar to Tyninghame, named for the town's most famous son. Dune systems, estuary mudflats, ancient woodland, and 12 miles of coastal path. The beach at Belhaven is wide, white-sand, and backed by dunes in good condition. Whiteadder Water meets the sea here in a way that is different at every tide. Seals haul out on the rocks near the river mouth; the estuary is significant for waders and wildfowl in winter.

John Muir Birthplace Museum

126 High Street · free · Apr–Oct daily; Nov–Mar reduced hours

The house where John Muir was born in 1838, now a small museum covering his early years in Dunbar and his subsequent transformation into the most influential figure in American conservation — Yosemite National Park, the Sierra Club, the preservation of half of California's natural landscape, all traceable to a childhood on this East Lothian coastline. The museum is small and the material is handled seriously.

Tantallon Castle

9 miles west on A198 · HES adult £8, child £5 · open daily Apr–Oct; limited winter

A 14th-century cliff-edge fortress of the Douglas family — a great red sandstone curtain wall on three sides, a 100-foot drop to the North Sea on the fourth. Bass Rock is directly offshore: 107 metres of volcanic basalt topped by a lighthouse and, from January to September, the largest accessible northern gannet colony in the world (150,000 birds). Tantallon is one of the most dramatically sited castle ruins in Scotland and entirely earns the drive.

Belhaven Brewery

1 mile west at Belhaven · tours by arrangement · ales available in town

One of Scotland's oldest operating breweries, founded 1719 on the site of a Benedictine monastery in Belhaven village. The brewery produces a range of traditional Scottish ales; the Belhaven Best is Scotland's best-selling cask ale. The brewery is not a major tourist operation but tours can be arranged. The Shore Inn at Dunbar Harbour serves the ales correctly — worth knowing for post-round consolidation.

Dirleton Castle & Gardens

8 miles west on A198 near North Berwick · HES adult £7 · open daily year-round

A 13th-century castle with one of Scotland's best Arts and Crafts gardens — a 17th-century bowling green converted in the 1920s into a herbaceous border that now ranks among the longest in the world. The castle itself is atmospheric; the garden, in July and August, is extraordinary. 8 miles from Dunbar on the A198 through the East Lothian farmland.

For the golfer

Courses Dunbar is the natural base for.

Other towns

Visiting elsewhere in Scotland?