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Birdie Brae

A Journal for the Thrifty Gowfer

While They Golf · Perthshire

Pitlochry for the non-golfer.

Pitlochry occupies the narrow valley where the A9 squeezes through the Highland fault line — the geological boundary between the Lowlands and the Highlands, which around here is a 30-mile band of folded Precambrian rock and spectacular river scenery. The Victorians understood the potential: the railway arrived in 1863, the Hydro opened in 1868, and the town has been receiving visitors with varying degrees of enthusiasm ever since. The distillery, the theatre, the dam and its fish ladder are all within fifteen minutes' walk of the town centre. The wider Perthshire landscape — Blair Castle in the north, Killiecrankie in the pass above, the Queen's View to the west, the Hermitage at Dunkeld to the south — makes this one of the more concentrated non-golfing clusters in Scotland. The golf courses around Pitlochry run from the town's own parkland course (compact, very green, played largely against a backdrop of steep forested hillsides) to Blair Atholl and Aberfeldy in the Tay valley and Taymouth Castle at Kenmore, which is in a different bracket entirely. For the non-golfing companion, this means a day based in the town itself can expand easily in either direction along the valley.

Practical note

Pitlochry has its own railway station on the Highland main line — 1 hour 20 minutes from Edinburgh, 30 minutes from Perth. The town is walkable end-to-end in 20 minutes. Blair Castle and Killiecrankie are best reached by car (8 miles north on the A9). The Queen's View is 6 miles west on the B8019. Dunkeld and the Hermitage are 12 miles south on the A9, with a small pay car park at the falls. Most attractions close or reduce hours from November to March.

The Picks

8 things to do within thirty minutes.

Blair Castle, Blair Atholl

8 miles north on the A9 · seat of the Duke of Atholl, Europe's only legal private army

The white-painted baronial castle in the Blair Atholl valley is the headline attraction for the area. The Duke of Atholl maintains the Atholl Highlanders — the only private army in Europe that is legally permitted to exist — and the castle is the seat of a title that dates to 1457. Thirty rooms open to visitors; the Entrance Hall antler collection is arresting. The parkland walk to Diana's Grove (a stand of enormous Douglas firs) takes 30 minutes and is free of charge.

Killiecrankie Gorge

4 miles north on the B8079 · National Trust for Scotland · the Pass and the Soldier's Leap

The NTS visitor centre explains the 1689 battle (Viscount Dundee's Jacobite forces defeated the Williamite government troops in a brief and violent engagement before Dundee himself was killed), and then the path follows the gorge to the Soldier's Leap — the point where a fleeing government soldier reportedly cleared 5.5 metres across the gorge to escape. The gorge walk is 2 miles return and is one of the better short walks in Perthshire, especially in autumn when the beech and oak canopy turns.

Queen's View, Loch Tummel

6 miles west on the B8019 · the classic Perthshire photograph · named for Queen Victoria (1866)

The viewpoint over Loch Tummel — Schiehallion behind, the loch stretching west through the forested valley — is the most-photographed view in Perthshire and has been since Queen Victoria admired it in 1866. The car park has a small Forestry Commission visitor centre; the ten-minute walk to the viewpoint itself is worth the detour even on a grey day. Allow 45 minutes.

Edradour Distillery

2 miles east on the A924 · one of Scotland's smallest traditional distilleries · walk-in tours

Edradour is the smallest traditional distillery in Scotland — three men run the entire operation through a season — and the site is deliberately small-scale: the mash tun, spirit safe, and wash still are in a cluster of whitewashed farm buildings above the burn. No appointment required for the standard 45-minute tour. The Ballechin heavily peated expression and the various SFTB (Straight From The Barrel) bottlings are the ones to look at in the shop.

Pitlochry Festival Theatre

Town centre · May–October · Scotland's longest-running repertory company

Six plays in rotating repertory, running May to October, in the theatre on the south bank of the Tummel. The Festival Theatre was founded in 1951 in a tent; the current building opened in 1981 and was extended in 2022. The mix of classic drama, new Scottish writing, and occasional musical runs seven days a week in high season; the pre-show dinner in the restaurant looks over the river.

The Hermitage & Black Linn of Braan, Dunkeld

12 miles south on the A9 · National Trust for Scotland · 2-mile return woodland walk

One of the finest short woodland walks in Scotland: the path follows the River Braan through old-growth oak and Douglas fir to Ossian's Hall (an 18th-century folly above the waterfall) and the Black Linn gorge. The trees were planted by the Duke of Atholl in the 1730s as a designed landscape; the Douglas firs are among the tallest in Scotland. Allow 90 minutes. The car park is paid (NTS); arrive early on summer weekends.

Dunkeld Cathedral

12 miles south · free entry · part-ruined 15th-century cathedral on the banks of the Tay

The cathedral sits on the north bank of the Tay in a setting that makes most Scottish ecclesiastical buildings look poorly located. The chapter house and the nave are roofless; the choir has been in use as the parish church since the Reformation. The small town of Dunkeld across the bridge has NTS-restored 18th-century houses, an independent bookshop, and a good tearoom.

Linn of Tummel

3 miles north · National Trust for Scotland · accessible gorge walk, old-growth woodland

The NTS gorge walk at the confluence of the Tummel and the Garry — shorter and less dramatic than Killiecrankie but more accessible, and good for families. The woodland is old-growth oak with some significant individual trees; otters have been seen on the river below the footbridge. Allow 60 minutes.

Other towns

Visiting elsewhere in Scotland?