A Journal for the Thrifty Gowfer
While They Golf · East Lothian
Gullane (pronounced 'gillan') is the village immediately east of Aberlady, slightly larger and slightly more polished, and the de facto golfers' base for the central East Lothian coast. Three numbered Gullane courses run up and over Gullane Hill — the highest point on the coast and one of the great Scottish viewpoints — with Muirfield two minutes' walk from the village square. The village itself has a serious lunch culture, two of East Lothian's better restaurants, and a non-golfing day that easily fills six hours.
Practical note
Drem station is six minutes' drive south. Gullane is almost entirely flat in the village itself but the hill walks rise 200 feet quickly.
The Picks
On the doorstep · 90 min loop · 200ft of climb
From the village square, walk uphill past the 1st tee of Gullane No. 1 to the top of Gullane Hill. The view: Bass Rock, Berwick Law, Fidra, the Pentlands behind Edinburgh, the Lomond hills in Fife on a clear day. The descent through Gullane Bents is a long, easy beach walk back into the village.
5 min walk · Lutyens 1901 house, Jekyll garden
Sir Edwin Lutyens' Edwardian country house overlooks Muirfield from across the road. Non-residents welcome at the bar and for lunch in Albert's Bar (book ahead). Walk the Jekyll garden afterward.
10 min east · long sand beach, Fidra is the inspiration for Treasure Island
Robert Louis Stevenson holidayed in nearby North Berwick and used Fidra (the offshore island visible from the beach) as the model for Treasure Island. Long sand walk; rock pools at low tide; picnic spots in the dunes.
5 min east · NTS · the village green is the photograph
The 13th-century castle ruin on the corner of Dirleton's village green. Tour the castle (90 minutes); have a drink at the Open Arms; walk back via Yellowcraig.
25 min south · pre-book · Lowland malt distillery
The Diageo Lowland flagship in the Tyne valley. 90-minute tour; the 12-year-old is the entry. The drive out via Haddington is pleasant.
15 min east · cliff fortress with Bass Rock backdrop
Seabird Centre, harbour, summer Bass Rock landings
40 min west by car · 30 min by train from Drem
Other towns