A Journal for the Thrifty Gowfer
While They Golf · East Lothian
Aberlady is the small village in the middle of the East Lothian golf coast. The eight Open-rota-or-near-it courses within fifteen minutes' drive (Muirfield, Gullane Nos. 1/2/3, Craigielaw, Kilspindie, Luffness New, Longniddry) make it the natural base for a golfing trip — but Aberlady itself, and the strip of coast it sits on, has more to offer the non-golfing companion than any of the more-photographed Fife or East Lothian villages.
Practical note
Drem is the local train station — 30 minutes from Edinburgh Waverley by ScotRail, with hourly services. Most picks below are within ten minutes' drive of the village; the further ones (Tantallon, Glenkinchie) are 20–25 minutes.
The Picks
On the doorstep · Britain's first LNR · free, all tides
The tidal reserve immediately north of the village. Pink-footed geese in their thousands in October–November; an old WWII midget submarine on the sands at low tide; the sweep of the bay below the course. Bring binoculars and waterproof shoes. Three to four hours of easy walking.
20 min south · pre-book · the Lowland malt of Diageo's Classic Six
The 1837 distillery in the Tyne valley. The standard 90-minute tour ends with a tasting of the 12-year-old, the Distillers Edition and a third dram that varies seasonally. The visitor centre includes a model distillery from the 1924 British Empire Exhibition.
20 min east · HES · 14th-century cliff fortress
The Red Douglas stronghold on the cliff edge with the Bass Rock filling the view across the firth. Allow two hours for the visit and the cliff-top walk back to the car park. One of Scotland's most photogenic ruins.
10 min east · NTS · prettiest village green in East Lothian
The 13th-century castle ruin sits at the edge of one of Scotland's loveliest village greens, with the Open Arms and the Castle Inn either side. Walk the village; tour the castle (allow 90 minutes); have lunch at the Castle Inn.
15 min east · Scottish Seabird Centre, harbour, summer-only Bass Rock landings
North Berwick has the Seabird Centre on the harbour (a five-screen wildlife observation hub focused on the Bass Rock gannet colony, the largest in the world), excellent independent shops along the High Street, and a long sandy beach in either direction. The Bass Rock landings run May–September only.
30 min east · free · the father of America's National Parks was born here
The townhouse where John Muir spent his first eleven years before the family emigrated to Wisconsin. Free entry, well-curated, with the John Muir Way coastal path running from Dunbar to Helensburgh.
30 min west · grand William Adam mansion, deer park, walks
The 17th-century house of the Marquess of Linlithgow, with rooms by William Adam and grounds running down to the Forth. Closed Mondays out of season.
40 min west · castle, Royal Mile, museums, restaurants
The straightforward urban day. Drive to Edinburgh Park and Park & Ride into town; the train from Drem is the more relaxed option. Allow a full day — Edinburgh isn't a half-day city.
For the golfer
Other towns