A Journal for the Thrifty Gowfer
While They Golf · Fife
Anstruther is the largest of the East Neuk villages — the working harbour, the Scottish Fisheries Museum, the famous fish bar, and the May Princess ferry to the Isle of May. The course closest to the village is Anstruther Golf Club itself (a small 9-holer), but Crail Balcomie, Elie, Lundin Links and Leven Links are all within 25 minutes. The non-golfing companion gets a fishing-village day with proper depth.
Practical note
Anstruther is on the A917 south of St Andrews. No train station — Leuchars is the nearest (45 min). The Fife Coastal Path runs through the village, connecting to the other East Neuk villages.
The Picks
On the harbour · twice winner of UK Fish Shop of the Year
The country's most-recommended chip shop, on the harbour. Eat sitting on a bench by the boats; the gulls have been known to be ambitious. Open lunch and evening; queues are part of the experience.
On the harbour · free model boats and three centuries of east-coast fishing
Three centuries of east-coast fishing history in the original 1318 Abbot's Lodgings. Free for children to play with the model boat collection in the courtyard; the boatyard exhibit is the family-friendly highlight.
Summer only · Scotland's least-touristed national nature reserve
The five-hour boat trip from Anstruther harbour to the Isle of May — puffins (Apr–Jul), seals year-round, the lighthouse and ruined St Adrian's chapel on the island. Sailings April–September weather permitting; book a day ahead at the harbour.
5 min west · 14th-century kirk, salt pans, Craig Millar restaurant
5 min west · working fishing harbour, summer Pittenweem Arts Festival
10 min east · the most-photographed harbour in Fife
15 min west · two long sand beaches, ruined chain pier, ice cream
15 min east · 19th-century walled garden, woodland to a private beach
For the golfer
Other towns