Skip to content
Birdie Brae

A Journal for the Thrifty Gowfer

While They Golf · Scottish Borders

Peebles for the non-golfer.

Peebles is the principal town of the eastern Scottish Borders, 23 miles south of Edinburgh on the River Tweed. It is small enough to walk across in ten minutes and large enough to have a good independent bookshop, three decent cafés, and a wool shop that takes the business seriously. The setting — the Tweed valley, surrounded by wooded hills — is excellent. The non-golfer in Peebles has a specific kind of day available: Traquair House to the east (Scotland's oldest inhabited house), Neidpath Castle within walking distance, and the Glentress mountain biking centre three miles east if cycling is the preference. It is not a full-city day but it is a very good quiet day. The Tweed itself is one of Scotland's best salmon rivers, and the walks along the riverbank both upstream and downstream from Peebles are the correct way to spend a dry morning. The path to Neidpath Castle follows the river west from the town bridge and takes 30 minutes at a relaxed pace.

Practical note

Peebles has free parking at Victoria Park (short stay) and at the Kingsmeadows Road car park (longer stay). The town is 45 minutes from Edinburgh by car on the A703. There is no train — buses run from Edinburgh (Lothian Buses X62) but take around 75 minutes. Traquair House is 6 miles east on the B7062 and seasonal — open April to October. Glentress is on the A72 3 miles east; bike hire available on site.

The Picks

8 things to do within thirty minutes.

Traquair House

Rain-proof

Innerleithen, 6 miles east on B7062 · adult ~£13 · open April to October

Inhabited since 1107 and continuously owned by the Stuart family since 1491, Traquair claims to be Scotland's oldest inhabited house, a claim that is hard to argue with. The Bear Gates — closed since 1745 and not to be opened until a Stuart sits again on the throne — are the most photographed element. The house itself, with its brewery (still producing a well-regarded ale), its priest's room, its archive of Jacobite correspondence, and its 20-odd rooms of largely untouched contents, is one of the more remarkable house visits in Scotland.

Neidpath Castle

1 mile west on B712 · admission charged when open · riverside path from town bridge

A 14th-century tower house on a promontory above the River Tweed, accessible by the riverside path from the town bridge. The walk itself — 30 minutes along the river, through mature woodland — is as good as the destination. The castle is not always open for interiors but the exterior and grounds can usually be explored. The view back to Peebles from the castle is one of the better valley views in the Borders.

Glentress Forest

3 miles east on A72 · Forestry Scotland · parking charge · year-round

The most-visited mountain biking venue in Scotland, with trails from beginner (green and blue) to extreme (black runs of the kind that only make sense if you already understand why). Bike hire, a café, and changing facilities on site. The walking trails through the forest are also excellent — quieter than the bike routes, with views across the Tweed valley from the higher paths. A full-day option in good weather; a half-day in reasonable weather.

Kailzie Gardens

2.5 miles east on B7062 · adult £6 · open daily April to October

A 20-acre garden on the south bank of the Tweed, with a walled garden, a pond with waterfowl, and an osprey-watching station linked to a live camera feed from a local nesting pair. The ospreys are the draw — they nest nearby from April and the feed runs through the summer. The garden itself is unpretentious: the kind of privately maintained space where the family's interest in plants is evident and the planting is genuinely good.

Peebles Town & River Walk

In town · free · year-round

Peebles has a good independent bookshop (Peebles Books), several wool shops on the High Street selling Scottish-made knitwear, and enough cafés to spend a morning in. The riverside walk along the Tweed from Peebles Bridge — upstream through Hay Lodge Park, downstream to the remains of Horsburgh Castle — is flat, well-surfaced, and excellent in any dry weather. A morning in the town and a riverside walk covers a day pleasantly without spending much.

Robert Smail's Printing Works, Innerleithen

Rain-proof

6 miles east on A72 · NTS adult £9 · open Apr–Oct

A Victorian job printer on Innerleithen High Street, preserved by the National Trust for Scotland exactly as it was left when the business closed in 1986 — the type cases, the order books, the office correspondence, and the 1850 Columbian press all intact. The firm operated continuously from 1866; tours include a chance to print a souvenir on the original press. It is one of those NTS properties that is harder to explain than it is to experience, and considerably better than you expect.

Dawyck Botanic Garden

8 miles southwest on B712, Stobo valley · adult £7 · open March to November

A Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh outpost in the Stobo valley — 65 acres of arboretum developed over several centuries, with many of the larger conifers brought from China and North America by plant hunters including George Forrest in the early 1900s. The Dawyck Beech, a fastigiate form now planted in parks throughout Britain, was first identified on this estate. In autumn the colour is as good as anything in the Borders; in spring the snowdrops arrive in quantity before most gardens have woken up.

Innerleithen & St Ronan's Wells

6 miles east on A72 · free to explore · year-round

Walter Scott set his 1824 novel St Ronan's Well in a thinly disguised Innerleithen, and the chalybeate spring on Wells Brae — which Scott effectively put on the map — survives in a small park above the town. The spring gave the village a brief 19th-century career as a health resort; the main trade now is mountain biking, wool, and the printing works listed above. The forested hillside above Innerleithen has some of the best downhill mountain bike trails in the Borders. Worth combining with Traquair House and Robert Smail's into a full Innerleithen day.

If the weather turns

2 picks that work whatever the forecast.

  • Traquair House

    Innerleithen, 6 miles east on B7062 · adult ~£13 · open April to October

  • Robert Smail's Printing Works, Innerleithen

    6 miles east on A72 · NTS adult £9 · open Apr–Oct

For the golfer

Courses Peebles is the natural base for.

Common questions

About visiting Peebles.

How do I get to Peebles from Edinburgh without a car?
Lothian Buses X62 runs from Edinburgh to Peebles and takes around 75 minutes. There is no train service to Peebles. The bus drops you in the town centre, within walking distance of the High Street and the Tweed riverside path.
Is Traquair House worth visiting for a non-golfer?
Yes — it is one of the most genuinely interesting house visits in Scotland. Inhabited since 1107 and continuously in Stuart family ownership since 1491, it has 20-odd rooms of largely untouched contents, a working brewery, and a priest's room. It is open April to October and costs around £13 for adults; book ahead in peak summer.
What is there to do in Peebles on a rainy day?
Traquair House is the obvious indoor option — the house itself is the draw rather than the grounds, and a full tour takes a couple of hours. The independent bookshop and wool shops on Peebles High Street are worth an hour in any weather, and the cafés are good enough to make a morning of.

Other towns

Visiting elsewhere in Scotland?

East Lothian

Fife

Edinburgh & the Lothians

Angus & Dundee

Perthshire

Stirling

Ayrshire

Glasgow & Lanarkshire

Argyll & Bute

Scottish Borders

Aberdeenshire

Moray & Speyside

Highlands

The Sunday Post

A good round, a fair fee, and a story from the clubhouse.

One email, most Sundays. No affiliate spam, no drip funnel, no nonsense. Just the tee time we'd book this week, the muni we'd play before work, and one piece of Scottish golf history worth the read.

Written by someone who actually plays here.

Put me on the list.

Unsubscribe any time — no hard feelings.

We send one email a week. No more, no less.