A Journal for the Thrifty Gowfer
While They Golf · East Lothian
North Berwick is the East Lothian seaside town, with the West Links course running directly from the harbour westward along the firth, and the Glen course on the cliffs east of town. The Bass Rock — the world's largest gannet colony — fills the view from almost every fairway. The town itself is a working fishing port turned weekender's haunt, with the Seabird Centre on the harbour, a long East Bay beach, and a high street of independent shops that has resisted the big chains.
Practical note
North Berwick has its own train station — 30 minutes from Edinburgh Waverley, hourly services. The town is walkable end-to-end in fifteen minutes.
The Picks
On the harbour · five-screen Bass Rock observation hub
The five-screen wildlife observation hub focused on the Bass Rock — the largest northern gannet colony on earth. Opens year-round; the live cameras into the gannet nests in summer are mesmerising.
Summer only (May–Sept) · book at the Seabird Centre
Catamarans run from the harbour to the Bass Rock for landings (3 hours, weather-dependent) or non-landing cruises (90 min, more reliable). Both fill in summer; book a day ahead.
5 min east · 14th-century Red Douglas stronghold
15 min walk from town · 600ft conical hill, panoramic views
The conical hill behind the town. 30 minutes' steep climb; views across the firth to Fife and inland to the Lammermuirs. The summit has a 19th-century watchtower and the 1709 jaw-bone arch of a sperm whale (recently restored).
10 min west · long sand beach, Fidra view, picnic site
10 min west · NTS · prettiest village green in East Lothian
20 min east · NCN1 cycle path, woodland and beach walks
30 min south · pre-book · the Lowland malt of Diageo's Classic Six
For the golfer
Other towns