North Berwick West Links was founded in 1832, making it the thirteenth oldest golf club in Scotland, and the course it plays today is built on ground that has been in use for golf since the mid-nineteenth century. The routing is an old-fashioned out-and-back links that turns at the farthest point from the town and returns along the shore — simple in plan, deceptively varied in execution. Two holes are known worldwide: the Redan (15th) and the Pit (13th).
The Redan is the original par 3 of that name — a 192-yard hole played across a diagonal slope to a green that falls left and away from the approach. The design has been copied at Augusta (Golden Bell, 12th), at National Golf Links of America, and at dozens of courses that wanted to capture its logic of rewarding a shaped shot to the correct side. The original is smaller, firmer, and harder to hold than most of its descendants. The Pit is a par 3 played to a green in a hollow, the approach requiring flight over a stone wall — the wall being genuinely in play, genuinely part of the course, genuinely Scottish.
The rest of the course is not as famous as the Redan and the Pit but is worth understanding. The front nine plays out along the shore toward the turning point, exposed on the seaward side and increasingly tight on the landward side as the holes compress toward the farthest point of the routing. The back nine plays back through a mixture of ground — some open, some squeezed between the beach ridge and the town — with the long par-4 17th requiring a second shot that manages both the distance and the tendency for the coastal ground to push everything toward the sea. The 18th finishes in front of the old stone clubhouse, a building that has been there since 1877. The whole course rewards the visitor who learns it rather than just reacts to it.
Visitor green fee is £225–£275. The course is public in the sense that it has no membership-only restriction, but tee times need to be booked in advance and fill quickly in summer. No handicap limit. Caddie hire is available at the starter's hut. The town of North Berwick — train direct from Edinburgh Waverley, 35 minutes — has good accommodation and the Lobster Shack on the harbour for a post-round crab roll.