Scheduled · publishes 1 January 2099
Getting There
Getting to North Berwick Golf Courses Without a Car
North Berwick is one of the few places in Scottish golf where you can arrive by train, walk to the course, and play a proper links without hiring a car. Here's exactly how to do it.
Most Scottish golf requires a car. The courses are spread across a large rural country, the bus services don't fit around tee times, and public transport that gets you close to a links usually leaves you with a several-mile walk to the clubhouse at 7am.
North Berwick is an exception. The town has a working railway station with regular services from Edinburgh, and the two main golf courses — the West Links and The Glen — are both within walking distance of the station. It's a genuine carless golf day, not a theoretical one.
The train from Edinburgh
Service: ScotRail runs trains from Edinburgh Waverley to North Berwick. Journey time: 35–45 minutes depending on the service.
Frequency: At least hourly during the day; more frequent in peak commuting hours. The first weekday train arrives in North Berwick around 7:15–7:30am; the last return leaves North Berwick late evening.
Journey: A coastal route along the East Lothian coast — Musselburgh, Prestonpans, Longniddry, Drem — with increasingly open views as you approach North Berwick. On a clear day the Bass Rock appears offshore about ten minutes before arrival.
Tickets: Buy in advance via the ScotRail app or website. Walk-in tickets are available from the Waverley ticket machines. No advance booking required for travel, just for your tee time.
Walking from North Berwick station to the courses
North Berwick West Links
Walk: 12–15 minutes from the station. Exit the station, walk along the High Street towards the harbour, turn left along the coastal path, and the clubhouse and first tee are clearly visible. You'll walk past the 18th fairway en route.
What you'll see: The low white clubhouse with the sea immediately behind it, and the first tee in the field between the club and the public path. The 18th fairway is public common land and people walk dogs and let children run across it; the tee time starts when you get to the first.
The Glen (East Links)
Walk: 20 minutes from the station, in the opposite direction to the West Links. Head east along the coast road, past the beach and the outdoor pool, and the course is on the elevated coastal strip above the shoreline.
Important note: The Glen is uphill — the course starts from a cliff above the town, and the walk from sea level to the first tee involves a short steep climb. Worth knowing before you're carrying a full bag.
Golf bags on the train
ScotRail allows golf bags in the luggage areas at the end of carriages, and on quieter services outside rush hour this is straightforward. During peak times (morning rush, Friday afternoon) the luggage areas fill quickly.
Practical approach: Book the first train that avoids the worst of the peak, or book the off-peak trains that ScotRail advertises on the East Lothian route. A 9am departure from Edinburgh on a weekday morning is usually comfortable with a full bag and trolley.
Trolleys: Electric trolleys are awkward on trains because of size and battery weight. A manual trolley folds flat and is manageable. If you're using an electric, consider a local golf bag storage service.
Alternative: Some golfers ship their clubs to North Berwick by courier the day before and collect from the club. This works for the West Links as they have a luggage storage arrangement; check with the club in advance.
Taxis from the station
If the walk isn't practical (heavy bags, early tee time, rain), taxis are available from outside North Berwick station. The fare to either the West Links or the Glen is under £10 and the journey takes three minutes. Local taxi numbers are posted at the station.
Getting to Gullane from North Berwick
Gullane's courses — No. 1, No. 2, No. 3 — are 6 miles west of North Berwick by road. No direct bus service runs on a schedule that fits golf tee times.
Options: Taxi from North Berwick to Gullane is around £15–18 one way; arrange a return pick-up in advance. Alternatively, the ScotRail service from Edinburgh to Drem station is 5 miles from Gullane and takes 25 minutes — from Drem, a taxi to Gullane is around £10. Neither option is as convenient as the North Berwick walk, but both work with planning.
A car-free East Lothian golf day: the full itinerary
7:30am: Depart Edinburgh Waverley. Morning train. Arrive North Berwick 8:15–8:30am.
8:30am: Walk to the West Links (15 minutes). Check in for 9am tee time.
9am: 18 holes on the West Links (3.5–4 hours). Finish around 12:30–1pm.
1pm–2pm: Lunch in North Berwick — the Coo restaurant near the harbour, or pub lunch at the Fenton Barns Farm Shop in town.
3pm: Optional: The Glen for a second 18 holes or 9 holes (if legs and appetite allow). Green fee is £65–£75.
6pm: Walk back to the station. Evening train to Edinburgh.
Cost: Train return (advance booking) £12–18 + West Links green fee £220–275 + lunch ~£15. Optional Glen £65. Total: £250–£375 for a full Edinburgh day trip to North Berwick, car-free.
What you can't do without a car
Muirfield, Craigielaw, Longniddry, Dunbar, and the Archerfield courses are all too far from any station to manage without a taxi, and taxi fares add up on a golf day. If you're planning to play multiple East Lothian courses on the same trip, a car makes the logistics significantly simpler.
North Berwick's car-free accessibility is the exception rather than the rule on the East Lothian coast.
For the North Berwick West Links in detail: North Berwick West Links — Visitor Guide. For getting to other East Lothian courses: East Lothian Golf Guide — Scotland's Golf Coast on a Budget.
Also in the Almanac
Golf Without a Car in Scotland: Complete Public Transport Guide
Every major Scottish golf region reachable by train or bus, with walking times to the first tee, timetable tips, and the trips that don't actually work without a hire car.