A Journal for the Thrifty Gowfer
Islay
Port Ellen, Isle of Islay
MachrieGolfCourseIslay— © Markatty / Wikimedia Commons (PD)
Redesigned in 2017 by DJ Russell. Whisky, beach, and 18 holes.
The Machrie sits on Islay, the southern Hebridean island better known to most visitors as the home of nine working malt-whisky distilleries. The course was originally laid out by Willie Campbell in 1891 — making it one of the older links in Scotland — and was comprehensively redesigned by DJ Russell, working with David Howell, between 2014 and 2017. The current routing keeps several Campbell holes (the famously blind 7th survives) but has rebuilt greens and rerouted others to make the course play more strategically while preserving its character.
What makes The Machrie unusual is the setting. The course runs along Laggan Bay on the south coast of the island, with seven miles of beach as the eastern boundary. Most rounds are walked alongside the Atlantic, with views toward Northern Ireland on a clear day. The hotel beside the first tee is a destination in its own right — the bedrooms, restaurant and whisky bar were redesigned at the same time as the course, and the property functions as the de facto golf-and-whisky resort of the southern Hebrides.
The blind 7th — a par 4 where the drive is played over a dune ridge to a fairway that is entirely invisible from the tee — is the surviving emblem of the original Campbell design, and DJ Russell was right to keep it. The 11th plays along the beach boundary with Laggan Bay immediately left; anything pulled left is on sand, not rough. The 15th and 16th are the course's most demanding stretch: consecutive long holes into the wind with the fairways narrowing between dune ridges and the approach angles unforgiving in both directions. These holes were rebuilt in the 2014–2017 redesign and they play like holes that took time to get right.
Visitor green fee is £105–£135. Getting there is a commitment: ferry from Kennacraig (two hours, requires booking well ahead in season) or a 35-minute Loganair flight from Glasgow. Once you arrive, every great Islay distillery — Lagavulin, Laphroaig, Ardbeg, Bowmore, Caol Ila, Bunnahabhain, Bruichladdich, Kilchoman, Ardnahoe — is within an hour by car. The pairing of golf and whisky here is unusually well-matched: the course is genuinely good, and so is the whisky.
The Full Scorecard
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Conditions This Week
Scored 0–10 for golf — wind, rain, conditions · Full 7-region forecast →
Location
Port Ellen, Isle of Islay · PA42 7ANOpen in OpenStreetMap →
While They Golf
Islay isn't only for the golfers. Walks, drives, distilleries, castles, a long lunch — five picks within thirty minutes of the first tee.
The Islay companion guide →★ Pair This Round ★
Three things within an hour of the first tee. Each open to visitors; each chosen for what suits a golfer's pace, not a tour bus's.
Distillery · 15 min east
Lagavulin · Founded 1816
The peated Islay benchmark. The 16-year-old is the gateway dram for many; the Distillers Editions are where committed Lagavulin drinkers go. The shoreline distillery sits in a sheltered bay just south of Port Ellen.
Distillery · 12 min east
Port Ellen · Founded 1815
The most divisive Islay malt — medicinal, smoky, unapologetic. The Friends of Laphroaig programme gifts every member a square foot of peat bog. Tour is well-paced; the warehouse tasting is the one to book.
Distillery · 18 min east
Port Ellen · Founded 1815
The Kildalton Trio's third member. The Old Kiln Café on site is one of the better visitor lunches on the island; the Uigeadail and Corryvreckan releases are the modern Ardbeg reference points.
Plan This Round
Where to Stay
Hotels, lodges and self-catering near the first tee. Map-style search via Stay22 covering Booking.com, Expedia, Airbnb and Vrbo.
How to Get There
Glasgow (GLA) or Inverness (INV) is 240 minutes away by car. Train + onward taxi works for the carless visitor.
Insure Your Round
Most home contents policies don't cover golf clubs in transit. The picker matches you to the right kind of cover in two minutes.
Played here? Consider
Picked for links rounds on the Scottish coast.
Outerwear
Wind off the firth changes club selection two irons. A breathable, fully-waterproof shell that's light enough not to swing in is the single biggest upgrade for Scottish links golf.
Layer
Scottish-made merino — the locals' choice for shoulder-season rounds. Warm enough for a 7am tee time in October, light enough for the back nine when the sun comes out.
Tech
Handles blind tee shots and exposed-coastal yardage cleanly. Battery lasts a 36-hole day; the wind-direction overlay justifies the price on its own.
Stays Nearby
Hotels, B&Bs and self-catering within easy reach of Port Ellen. Tap any property to check rates.
Rates and availability via Stay22. We may earn a small commission if you book — at no extra cost to you. How affiliate links work.
Frequently Asked
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