Machrihanish Golf Club — the original of the two Machrihanish courses, often called 'the old Mach' to distinguish it from its modern neighbour — was laid out by Old Tom Morris in 1879 and is widely held to have one of the greatest opening tee shots in golf. The 1st, 'Battery', requires the player to drive across the corner of the Atlantic Ocean: the more of the bay the player carries, the shorter the second shot to the green. It is the kind of opening that defines a course's personality before the first putt is struck.
Old Tom is famously quoted as saying of the site: 'The Almighty had goff in his e'e when he made this place.' Whether or not he ever said it in those exact words, the quote captures something true. The course runs through enormous, ancient dunes that the architect did not so much design as edit — fairways thread between dune ridges, greens sit in natural amphitheatres, and the dune walks between holes are part of the round's character.
Visitor green fee is £95–£125 depending on season. Pair the round with the modern Machrihanish Dunes a mile up the coast for a 36-hole comparison — same coastline, same wind, two completely different design philosophies. Three hours from Glasgow by road, or a 30-minute Loganair flight from Glasgow to Campbeltown. The Ugadale and Royal Hotels in the village are the closest beds to the first tee.
The 4th, Plover's Haunt, is a 170-yard par 3 played to a green set in a natural bowl encircled by enormous dunes — one of the finest short holes in Scottish golf, invisible until you arrive at the tee. The remoteness of the journey is the other half of the Machrihanish experience: the Kintyre peninsula extends 50 miles south-west of Glasgow into the Atlantic, and the course sits close to its tip. There is no shortcut. The three-hour drive from Glasgow through Loch Lomond, Inveraray, and the length of Kintyre is part of what makes arriving at the first tee feel earned.