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Birdie Brae

A Journal for the Thrifty Gowfer

Region · Highlands

Golf in Highlands

Royal Dornoch and the long drive north. Six hours from London, three from Edinburgh — and the most consistently brilliant links country in Scotland once you get there.

9 courses reviewed · green fees from £35 to £255

The Highlands is the longest drive in Scottish golf and the most consistently brilliant payoff. Royal Dornoch — the course that Tom Watson called the most fun he'd ever had on a golf course — sits 235 miles north of Edinburgh on a strip of natural linksland that James Braid called the finest in Britain. Castle Stuart, twenty minutes east of Inverness, is the modern Mark Parsinen and Gil Hanse design that proved a brand-new links course could compete with the centuries-old ones. Nairn, host of the 1999 Walker Cup, played the role of British links representative in the era when Royal Dornoch was still considered too remote. Boat of Garten is a James Braid heathland course laid out through pine and silver birch with the Cairngorms as backdrop. Brora is the Donald Ross course in Sutherland that has appeared on every "underrated" list ever published.

Six hours from London by sleeper train. Three from Edinburgh by car. Two and a half from Aberdeen on the A96. The Highland circuit is the trip that requires the most logistical commitment — and rewards it with five days of golf no other Scottish region can match. Green fees average lower than the central belt, too: Royal Dornoch is £295 in peak (cheaper than the Old Course), Nairn is £215, Brora is £85, and Boat of Garten is £85. The premium pricing of St Andrews and Muirfield isn't here.

The hidden gems are deeper north still. Tain — laid out by Old Tom Morris in 1890 and barely altered since — is forty minutes from Dornoch and charges £100. Fortrose & Rosemarkie sits on the Black Isle on a narrow spit of links that runs out to a lighthouse. Golspie pairs heathland and links holes on the same round, which almost no other course in Scotland does. Grantown-on-Spey is a Braid heathland in the Cairngorms that visitors driving the A9 between Perth and Inverness should plan a detour for.

The headline courses

The Highlands courses that visitors come for, ranked by editorial weight rather than green fee.

links18 holesVisitor friendlyClub hire
£185–£255Read our review →
links18 holesVisitor friendlyClub hire
£195–£255
links18 holesVisitor friendlyClub hire
£145–£185
heathland18 holesVisitor friendlyClub hire
£55
links18 holesVisitor friendlyClub hire
£65–£85

Hidden gems

The four budget and lesser-known clubs in Highlands that earn the visit but rarely make the brochures.

links18 holesVisitor friendlyClub hire
£55–£75
links18 holesVisitor friendlyClub hire
£55–£75
links18 holesVisitor friendlyClub hire
£50–£120
heathland18 holesVisitor friendlyClub hire
£35–£50

All 22 courses in Highlands

The headline 5 and the 4 hidden gems above, plus 13 more clubs we've covered across Highlands — from championship venues to municipal pay-and-plays.

Highlands courses — map view

22 courses plotted. Click any pin for name, type, and green fee. Scroll or pinch to zoom.

Loading map…

When to play

The Highland season is shorter than the rest of Scotland. The links courses — Dornoch, Castle Stuart, Nairn, Brora — open in early April and play strongly through to mid-October. The Cairngorms heathland courses (Boat of Garten, Grantown-on-Spey) lose two weeks at each end to spring frost and autumn turn. May, June, July, August and September are the months when every course in the region plays at its best.

Daylight is the Highland advantage no marketing brochure captures properly. June and July have effective daylight from 4am to past 10:30pm; thirty-six holes a day is genuinely possible without rushing. By December the same latitude gives you sunlight from 9am to 3:30pm, which means winter golf above Inverness is essentially impossible from late November through to mid-February.

Weather patterns are gentler than the west coast — the Highland east coast is in a partial rain shadow from the Cairngorms — but the wind off the Moray Firth is real and persistent. Royal Dornoch's 8th hole, played from an elevated tee down to a green guarded by gorse, is a hole that can require a 6-iron or a driver depending on the day. Plan for variability and book trips longer than you think you need: five days gives you weather options; three days is a coin flip.

Where to stay

Inverness is the practical base for visitors playing the full circuit. It has the only sizeable hotel inventory north of Aberdeen, the airport with direct flights from London and several European hubs, and the railway station with sleeper service from London Euston and the Far North Line connections to Tain and beyond. Drive times from Inverness: Castle Stuart twenty minutes, Nairn twenty-five, Boat of Garten thirty-five, Royal Dornoch fifty, Brora ninety, Tain forty-five.

Dornoch itself — population 1,400, with the cathedral, two pubs, and the golf course — is a more atmospheric base but with limited hotel inventory and prices that climb fast around tee-time clusters. The Royal Golf Hotel and Dornoch Castle Hotel are the two main options; B&Bs in the village fill 6+ months ahead in peak. Our stay-and-play guide covers the Highland accommodation question in detail; for non-golfing companions, our /while-they-golf town hubs cover Dornoch, Inverness, Brora and Nairn.

Off-course in Highlands

The Highland whisky region — Glenmorangie, Old Pulteney, Balblair, Clynelish, Dalmore — runs in parallel with the golf circuit. The Cairngorms National Park covers the southern Highlands and offers Scotland's best high-altitude walking. Aviemore is the practical base for non-golf days in the mountains. Here's where to look across the network.

A 4-day Highlands circuit

Four days is the minimum that lets the Highland circuit breathe. The Caledonian Sleeper solves the journey from London: departs Euston at 21:00, arrives Inverness at 08:35. Collect a hire car from Union Street, two minutes from the platform (Hertz, Enterprise and Avis desks open before 9am). A Classic cabin runs £110–£180 one way; the arithmetic for a four-day trip generally beats flying on total journey time and usually on cost. You arrive having slept rather than queued at departures.

Day one: Castle Stuart is twenty minutes east of Inverness and takes 10am visitor tee times on weekdays — first tee by 10:15am, finished by 3pm (£145). Drive back through Inverness to Nairn, twenty-five minutes west (1999 Walker Cup host, £215). Evening round from 4:30pm in June's extended daylight. Two courses on the first real day.

Day two: drive fifty miles north to Royal Dornoch. Allow the full day — the course earns it (£295 in peak). Tom Watson's "most fun I've ever had on a golf course" is the quote that follows every review, and it remains accurate. Dornoch itself has the cathedral, the castle hotel, and two pubs; the club's bar after the round is not optional. Stay overnight in Dornoch or Tain to avoid the fifty-mile return drive to Inverness.

Day three: Tain Golf Club in the morning — Old Tom Morris, 1890, forty minutes from Dornoch (£100). Drive forty minutes further north to Brora in the afternoon — Donald Ross's Sutherland course, nine holes heathland and nine links on the same round (£85). The circuit's most productive day by quality-per-pound, in a part of Scotland that most visitors never reach.

Day four: drive south. Boat of Garten in the Cairngorms is the natural stop — James Braid heathland with the mountains visible from the 3rd fairway (£85). Three hours for the round, then the A9 south. The Far North Line runs parallel for visitors who want to drop the car at Inverness and return by rail.

Handicap certificates

Which Highlands courses require a handicap certificate, and what the standard visitor limits are. Requirements occasionally change — confirm with the club before booking.

None of the courses in our Highlands selection impose a formal handicap certificate requirement. Visitors of any playing standard can book and play.

Getting there

By car

From Edinburgh
3 hr 30 minto Inverness; add 45 mins for Dornoch
From Glasgow
3 hr 30 min
From Aberdeen
2 hr 30 minacross the A96 to Nairn or Inverness

By train

  • Inverness station

    The hub for everything north of Aviemore. Sleeper from London Euston stops here.

  • Tain station

    Far North Line. The closest railhead to Royal Dornoch (8 miles by taxi).

  • Nairn station

    Direct from Inverness or Aberdeen. Walking distance to The Nairn Golf Club.

Highlands golf — common questions

The questions visitors ask us most often about playing in Highlands.

Is Royal Dornoch really worth the long drive north?

Yes — and the answer is the same one almost every visitor gives once they've played it. The course is consistently ranked top-five in the world by people qualified to judge (Tom Watson, Ben Crenshaw, multiple golf magazine panels). The drive from Inverness is 50 minutes through Black Isle countryside; the trip is the point, not an obstacle.

Can you golf in the Highlands using the train?

Yes. The Far North Line from Inverness to Wick stops at Tain (40 minutes), Brora (90 minutes) and Helmsdale. Royal Dornoch is eight miles from Tain station by taxi (~£20). Add a sleeper from London Euston and you have a Highland golf trip with zero days behind the wheel.

When is Castle Stuart at its best?

June through September. The course is right on the Moray Firth and exposed to the prevailing wind; April–May rounds can play stiff in cold easterlies. The greens — a defining part of the design — peak in mid-summer. Sunset rounds in June are extraordinary because of the long northern daylight.

Should I base in Inverness or Dornoch?

Inverness for trips covering the whole region — it's the only sizeable hotel base, has the airport, has the railway hub. Dornoch for trips focused on Royal Dornoch, Tain and Brora; the village has a handful of hotels and B&Bs that fill six or more months ahead in peak.

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